Is Simple FOC an alternative to BGMC2 from RoverTec

Hi Richard,
I am currently assembling a board and have arrived at the encoder.

  • Which of the MT6701 models did you use? The availability is best of the one in the picture.
  • that would be the ABZ mode (similar to SPI)?
  • can you tell me your circuit or draw how it must be?

Hi Thomas,

I used the QFN model. But I think they are the same functionality unless you want the pins for UVW output.

For the MT6701, so far I have only got the SSI mode to work.

ABZ mode is an incremental encoder mode, like an optical encoder with ABZ outputs. It can be used with SimpleFOC’s Encoder class.
So far I have not got the ABZ mode to work, maybe its a mistake in my circuit, or maybe I just haven’t tested enough - I only gave it one short try so far.
The SSI mode works well, but only if this chip is the only device on the SPI bus. You can’t attach other SPI devices to the same bus.

That’s the circuit I made. The switch (in theory) changes between the SSI/I2C and ABZ modes.

When nCS is low, it should answer in SSI mode. When nCS is high, it should work in I2C mode.

What’s the headers for? A BlackPill MCU?
→ ABZ, SSI and I2C modes would all want different pins:

  • ABZ mode can use any pins supporting interrupts, but if you can attach the ABZ outputs also to the pins of the same timer on STM32, you can use the hardware encoder feature.
  • SSI mode wants a connection to a SPI bus
  • I2C mode needs pins on an I2C bus
    Note you can attach the signals to multiple pins, just put the pins for a protocol you’re not using in input mode.

Hi Richard,
I use the raspberry pico and I want to use also the SSI like you, so I’m sure that will work :slight_smile:
I found a picture in the Datasheet of the M6701 for SSI Mode:

Can you say me pls the part number of the “6V TVS” and the “100nF 10V” ?

Thank you verry much!

Hey Thomas,

I used a Littlefuse SP1005-01WTG
But I think any 6V TVS diode will do the trick.

Looking at your layout picture, it’s not finished, right? Because it looks like the polarized capacitor’s negative side isn’t connected yet…

Hi Richard,
I have now connected everything and have also integrated the 5V step up 12V module. I found a suitable easyeda file on the internet:

Question:

  • how can I now check whether the function of the board is given, or whether errors have been made?
  • how can I check the BOM to see if all parts can be obtained from JLCPCB and if all parts are assembled or soldered by this company?


Hi Thomas,

These are good questions, and I do recommend to find out how to verify the design in EasyEDA - but I’m afraid I can’t help much there, as I’m not an easyEDA user - I use KiCad…
In KiCad it begins with the schematic, and continues with the design rules of the layout. I assume easyEDA has similar tools. The process involves setting the design rules to match your Fab’s capabilities, and then applying them to the design, fixing any errors the checker finds. Since easyEDA and JLC are associated, I would expect that to be pre-configured and very easy to do, but I don’t know.

In terms of simulating the design, I’ve never done this for a motor controller, setting up a simulation for such a complex design greatly exceeds my skills with such tools. I also suspect you would be missing spice models for many components.
So once my design checks out according to schematic and design rules, I Fab it and then test the function on the resulting prototype boards.

In terms of components, you can just generate a BOM from easyEDA and upload it to JLC - maybe it’s even possible directly from wi5in easyEDA. JLC will then identify the components and quote you prices according to the BOM. At that point they will flag anything they can’t source or that costs extra.

Another good thing to do is to check the 3D view of the design - in your case you are mounting a MCU above an electrolytic capacitor? You want to be sure that the parts will physically fit and the MCU’s bottom doesn’t touch the cap. Or is the MCU on the other side?

The 3D fits. There is no collision. I’ve also looked at the parts list and a few things don’t seem to fit. Do Ihave to replace it with an alternative?

1 Like

Let me find you alternatives. Hold on.

For the 100nF capacitors use the basic 402 footprint

Part number C307331

The 201 footprint will make your board really expensive. You can fit 402 there. The 201 footprints are very unusual.

For the diode use

part: SS54
part number C22452

You also have a lot of extended components which will make your board really expensive. You may want to consider basic alternatives.

Cheers,
Valentine

Thx Valentine. And for the D1?

Closest you could get from the basic components is

P6SMB6.8CA/TR13 C78395

But that’s not a 603, it’s a DO-214AA, compared to a 603 that’s Godzilla vs. Ant Man.

The closest extended in good stock I could see in a 603 package is this:

D5V0L1B2LP3-7 C282418

However the stand-off voltage is 5V and clamping is 14.

If you are trying to protect 5V, then C282418 will work. If you are trying to protect 6V then we need to dig deeper.

Cheers,
Valentine

PS I suggest you don’t just replace in the BOM but go back and replace these components in the schematics and make sure you reroute and rebuild your copper pours and check the DRC because the footprints are always slightly different and will create a problem, unless you REALLY know what you are doing.

Plus, next time you fab you have to dance again so might as well fix your schematics with those in stock more generic components.

The D1 is connected with 3.3V

Oh, you are protecting 3.3V you are golden. Looking at your schematics, it’s a good fit.

anime-thumbs-up

Cheers,
Valentine

You could also try getting quotes from other Fabs, like PCBWay. I think you’d get a $30 assembly with free shipping deal for this design, so then its $30 + components, for up to 20 pieces. They also have a “first order free” deal for new customers, not sure if it would work for this design or not.
PCBWay has no surcharges for extended components, so if JLC is charging a lot for these it could be cheaper to look elsewhere.

Hi Valentine,
I have now knocked out the D1 (it was still extended), which is only recommented according to the data sheet.
Here is the parts list, can something else be changed from extended to basic?
The P1,P2,U1,U2, U3, U4 and U5 should stay that way or is there maybe also a posibility to change it to basic?

@Thomas

There are no basic connectors, all are extended. You have the option of leaving them out of the BOM and soldering yourself manually, however, since you want it to be out of the box, you have to pay extra for the components and soldering.

As @runger mentioned you may explore other fab facilities, however, JLC at that point is probably your best choice if you have not done this before due to them being fully end to end integrated.

Cheers,
Valentine

ok, then it seems to fit for now. There are a variety of settings for the board. Is there a guide or a recommendation for the creation of the boards? Is the thickness of 1.6mm ok for this size?

I created some time ago a guide to order one of my Mosquito boards step by step, it’s even using the same driver as yours, please see how I did it here:

https://community.simplefoc.com/t/ordering-a-mosquito-bldc-board-from-jlc-step-by-step/2120

Cheers,
Valentine

1.6mm is a very standard thickness for a 2-6 layer PCB… choosing anything else will presumably come with a surcharge.

Does the mt6701 sensor need pull-up resistors? or is it the same as with your encoder. There weren’t any in there. If I need pullup resistors, could I do that with the software? The 5 boards for 75 euro have been produced at jlcpcb and are now being shipped