If you include RX/TX as well you can debug via the st-links built in serial 2 usb converter. The ST-Link 14 pin header allows for it…
May I ask why mess with the pogo pins? Why not just put the ARM-14 header right on the board?
There’s another hackaday post somewhere on the same topic where they compare different solutions to the problem… the sacrificial neopixel + Diode is certainly one of them, but if you have 5V tolerant pins the open drain solution needs only a single resistor, I don’t think it can be beat for cost… using a simple level shifter would need the shifter + 2 caps for decoupling, I don’t think it will cost more than Neopixel + Diode, and is somehow cleaner…
I broke out the SWO pin om the header. Part of the SPI interface, I think that is sufficient.
I like pogo-pins 
there is no room for the 14 pin 1.27 pitch on the board itself. Maybe I should omit the reset, since the virgins IC will not use SWCLK as TIM8_Ch2, if then a re-flash is needed or it’s bricked then the Reset button can be used. Hmmm it’s not like I’m planning on flashing it w. Pogo pins all the time, just once.
@runger the reason for pogo pins is my experience from last where it was a pain, although possible, to flash without. Those small SMD pogo’s are not too expensive
Now the POGO´s are 4pin style, like its customary. 3.3V, DIO, CLK, GND in that order. SWO and NRST can be connected if needed for some reason, like debugging.
Ive included the RX/TX pins, although I am not entirely sure how to use them. Seeing they are on pins 13/14 on the 14pin 1.27mm pitch ST-link connector, it would be foolish not to integrate them I agree @runger
Are you doing in-line current sensing with two INA241s?
Right now I’m tuning parameters. Yes the board has in-line INA241 amplifiers. (1.1Mhz)
You’ve built almost exactly what my goal is to build as well, so I’ll have a lot of questions for you if that’s ok. Have you released a schematic? This way I won’t have to ask so many things 
As I told you already, you are more then welcome to join the Beta run. You may ask all you want, just create a new thread.
So I actually need Wi-Fi control so I’ll end up using an ESP32, which will then require me to use the DRV8412. But it’s for a 6A Nema 34 stepper motor and will use the same encoder and similar power stage components. So this board is more of a guide, but this is one of the few large stepper motor boards that I see in this forum so it’s very helpful
You do know the ESP32 has verry poor ADC right ? Take a look at the specs. With a ESP32 you should be able to use a HALL-type current amplifier. Happy making! Create a new thread.
@dfrenkel if you expect to use wireless while reading the ESP32 ADC I think you are in for a challenge. I think @Valentine has some insight into this ?
Talking wireless got me thinking. I have some nrf53 samples sitting on my desk. The question is if the SPIN32 buck can provide the needed current @runger. I’m tempted to make a small add on layer/stack. It’s a dual core M-33 just waiting to be unleashed. So one core for BLE another for user code. Combine that with the G4 and you have a tri-core setup ready for any e-bike 
Ultra-low-power radio with great sensitivity
The nRF5340 SoC radio sets a new standard when it comes to combining advanced features and minimizing current. The 0 dBm TX current is 3.4 mA, while the RX current is only 2.7 mA, resulting in a reduction of 29% and 41% when comparing to the nRF52840 SoC. The RX sensitivity is -98 dBm, 3 dB better than nRF52840, meaning that the nRF5340 provides 3 dB better sensitivity, while using 41% less current.
Mesh
@Juan-Antonio_Soren_E , Regarding the ESP32 ADC, I came across this post from @runger in the discord channel, which is why I decided to stay with the ESP32:
"Look, the ADC is not very good on the ESP32, but I think it is good enough… perhaps @DavidG can comment on this, he has used it quite a bit. The many advantages of the ESP32 can outweigh this disadvantage, I think.
If you design the analog circuit to give a “loud and clear” signal in the 0V-3V range, you can probably do a lot to fix non-linearity in software, if you want…
But its undeniable that the ADCs on an STM32 are much better - but the chips cost more, don’t do WiFi or ESP-Now, and also, simply aren’t available right now 
"
I think at worst I can add an external ADC to I2C module because I understand wireless control on the ESP32 (I like ESPUI) very well and having dual cores will be very very helpful for my Wi-Fi project without adding too much complexity
Yes, do not put eggs in the microwave.
sorry to revive this post but i started developing my own board and i saw this schematic and i got a doubt why do you use external LDOs ???
Yes, that is purely a choice. If you look through the datasheet, there are various ways to power it. It does have a internal LDO.
okay thank you and is that 5v LDO only for disabling the power from usb through ap2161?
I suppose it is for onboard 5v. Why ?
In reality it is a bit below 5v since it drops through that diode.
Hi, I have designed a custom foc board with the stspin32g4 the board is based on a the reference design for the evlspin32g4-act i have swapped out the hall sensors for an i2c magnetic encoder AS5600, I am not an electronics engineer,and I have never worked with an stm microcontroller before, I am finding it hard to connect to using swd through the st-link on a nucleo 64, if any one could help I’d be grateful
It should “just work”. I’ve struggled with connecting before, and it always turned out to be faulty solder joints or connectors. Power, ground, SWDIO and SWCLK is all you need. Although I do use a $10 knockoff ST-Link v2 mini, not Nucleo, so hopefully the software side is the same. STM32CubeProgrammer is probably the most reliable, but Arduino IDE should also be able to upload automatically.
I cube programmer the target voltage is detected but it is not able to connect, I was trying to connect to it while it’s connected to VM, all the buck converters are working I have measured 8v at VCC at default and 3.3v at VDD and Vref, boot 0 pin is at 0.4v, no pull down, should I try to power it with only 3.3v to VDD? I haven’t tried with arduino ide, is it easier?