Yea you should look at nylon or pc as material for the motor as its quite trivial for brushless motors to generate temp up to 80C, which melts most other materials.
Right, I would even go a step further a look at glass-fibre filled nylon. Iâve 3d printed with reinforced nylon and it blew me away, the result was exceptionally strong, and dimensionally temperature resistant up to 170c. However, I used a heavily modified head and ruby nozzle, high-temperature plate, as well as hacked firmware. Not cheap.
Edit: Structurally, reinforced nylon retains mechanical properties up to 120c. Unless you go for PEEK or PEI, but then you need an all steel setup ($$$$), because you will melt the off-shelf aluminum parts on the head.
Edit2: Avoid CF, unless you are willing to invest a huge amount of time and money, as carbon fibre and nylon do not form proper bond (interfacial adhesion) and you will end up laminating your design. Also, PC is brittle, and you need a very tough print. PC is very hard, and dimensionally correct, but shatters on impact.
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I have the Nylon Bridge from Taluman, but it is not good for me because it is very flexible. I need something much more rigid.
I have contacted SmartMaterials3D and they have given me two valid materials for this application.
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One is âNYLSTRONGâ which is reinforced PA6+CF (I think) that holds up to 200ÂșC. Is very difficult to print (a lot of warping), it needs a reinforced nozzle and the finish is rough.
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And the other one is âPOLYAMIDE HTâ which is reinforced polyamide. They have assured me that it withstands a temperature of 120ÂșC continuously and 160ÂșC maximum short term use, has very little warping and is rigid without breaking (more than PLA).
Due to the very small stator and rotor tolerances, I need a material dimensionally correct, as rigid as possible and that is easy to print without the headaches of warping, that is why I have chosen Polyamide HT
Iâm going to do tests, but if it is similar to PLA holding up to 120ÂșC I think it is very promising 
Interesting. I checked both, nylstrong is not reinforced with carbon fibre. CF is always black or dark grey, cannot be colored, especially cannot be white. Must be either aramid fibre or glass fibre filled nylon. Could not find the other but polyamide is also nylon. nylon is just a trademark name for polyamide 6 or 6,6. So the other is also filled nylon which means it has the same or similar print and mechanical characteristics. I am very curious how your motor works out. Hope it works well.
edit: This is the one I used
Edit2: I used Micro-Swiss direct drive, sacrificial petf tube between the feed and nozzle (glass fibre clogs all metal immediately and also is so abrasive it destroys the feeding neck), slice engineering hot end, ruby 0.6mm nozzle (Olsson Ruby), and platinum thermocouple because I needed 280oC to melt the nylon to get it out through the nozzle. I also had to modify the firmware to work up to 300oC and recognize the platinum thermocouple and high-temperature hotbed (I used PlatformIO to recompile and load the modded Marlin FW). Also needs full 3d printer insulated enclosure to keep everything inside hot else your part will warp, laminate and pop off the hotbed. I needed a heated enclosure to keep everything inside the enclosure at 60oC during print. Also needed to dry the nylon filament for 24 hours at 60oC in a dry oven. Print in a workshop with excellent ventilation because the petf tube will degrade with time at high temperature and release poisonous gas. Also because it takes a long time to print, your filament must be in a dry filament box with a tube feeding into the direct drive to eliminate moisture absorption. I hope I am helping.
I just received a spool of Taulman 910. It should be much harder then Bridge, which I have experience with. Iâm experimenting with Tufnol (Garolite) for bed material. Will let you know how it goes. My printer is semi-enclosed, so Iâm considering to feed in the heat-brake cooling and exhaust through 40mm duct piping, mainly to avoid any draft on the part. Nylon is very prone to warping/deform due to draftâs.
Never tried garolite. I always use a Corning glass bed (Pyrex) with hairspray, custom bed adhesion pattern (do not rely on the Cura or whatever slicer you use, you must design the adhesion brim yourself for the nylon part as an integral part of the 3d design part then cut it out) and print the first layer at 0.3mm to even out any bed leveling issues. The adhesion brim and high temperature enclosure is crucial to the print, it will prevent warping.
Nylon Bridge adhere well to Garolite? I have to do a lot of preparation to print with nylon and I had read that with that material it was going very well.
In my case I use glass with PVA glue and a raft pattern, but having an Original prusa I had to do some hacks to be able to print on a glass.
Normally nylon sticks well, but it is a bit of a pain to have to apply the glue, level the bed, wait to put the glass on, etc. etc.
There is also another technique that I use. I print a raft layer of PETG material, pause printing, and switch to nylon. PETG adheres well to PEI sheet, and nylon adheres well to PETG.
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Iâve used dimafix for CF-nylon on glass at 90c(just donât spary it indoors 
). Worked like a treat. Also Nanopolymer adhesive from vision miner works quite well but is bit more laborious to apply.