I have found by looking at the code that SimpleFOC uses the terminal to terminal resistance, which imo is the best way to do things.
The subject of how to proceed with getting a novel combination of hardware working comes up fairly often on this forum I have noticed, and the answer has been evolved to a reasonable degree, but I don’t think we have expressed it in a central location very well. For me, which is probably missing stuff for your situation :
Get things working at very low power and low rpm with voltage based open loop. The use of a current limited power supply is advisable. I used like 1 or 2 volts even as the driving voltage in the code.
Get your sensor reading sensibly.
Get the sensor adjusted so that it is reading accurately, and is coordinated with the electrical angle, simplefoc has calibration stuff and can measure the zero offset. This may be not needed for hall sensors, IDK.
Then try to connect things so that simplefoc loops around reading the sensor and updating the “electrical angle”, at low power.
Then there is pid tuning and a bunch of stuff I never bothered with so can’t really comment on.
Might want to get current sensing working at this stage.
-other stuff??
Then increase speed and power with no load, then add load.
It would be good to have something more detailed for the different drive strategies.
I don’t know in what way inductance is factored in right now, or resistance, I haven’t explored that, however I am under the impression it is often not used and kind of still in development? however for large motors it is more important.
IMO it is important to check operation is proceeding as expected at each stage. It’s possible to have the motor turning and apparently working but you actually are getting poor efficiency or it stops working at higher rpm and so on, if you don’t proceed carefully with eyes open. Check to make sure things are not overheating for instance. I think getting everything working only in clockwise at first is also advisable as it reduces complexity and confusion and adapting things to also work counterclockwise is relatively easy after the other details are worked out.
BTW you should be aware these b-g431b-esc1 boards are hard to solder, I was super careful and still almost ruined one like three times. I carefully tinned the pads and the wire and used small gauge wire from the picoblade kit, I think it was 28 gauge or something. Then hold them together and heat them and inspect carefully.